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    Bike Talk

    Put my Company Logo on a Bicycle Jersey

    Put my Company Logo on a Bicycle Jersey

    Putting your company logo on a Jersey is easy and Corbah can make the process seamless.

    In most cases, Corbah can do the design and mockup at no cost. So just come to us with your logo and we can make a design for you that's unique and advertises your company or brand.

    To get started on this, go here now and fill out the contact form.

    There are a couple of methods we can use to create this custom jersey. The simplest way is to go through our site and pick a jersey design we already offer and have us create a custom proof containing your logo. We'll need an image of your logo sent to us first and production will take a few weeks. We do not just print the design over an already-made jersey. What we do is we fully sublimate this jersey for you especially as a one-off. It'll be the same high-quality print as any other jersey we off and will have the same warranty.

    Before you pay for the jersey, you'll be given a proof to approve and it will look something like this.


    The second method is a bit more complex and costly but will yield a more unique design. If you have some design that you would like to use as inspiration or some theme, for example, plumbing, we can sit you down with one of our designers and come up with a design one-on-one. We have a network of designers that we use in order to keep prices low. Their price is $50/hour and we pass that cost on directly to the customer with no markup on the labor.

    At any rate, we can make single or small batch custom jerseys with your company logo. Delivery takes only a couple of weeks and we know you'll love it when you get it.

    Do bib short straps go under or over the jersey?

    Do bib short straps go under or over the jersey?

    Bib Short Straps go under the jersey.

    We actually get this question quite often. While there are some garments that can go under the bibs short straps, they are quite limited. For example, our Corbah Base Layer is meant to be worn under your bib short straps. In most cases, that is it. The layering sequence goes:

    1. Base Layer
    2. Leg/Knee warmers
    3. Bib Shorts
    4. Arm Warmers
    5. Jersey
    6. Jacket

    Base layers go on under the bibs mostly for style points and aero. Nothing says newb quite like a base layer sticking out of a jersey.

    We recommend putting the knee and leg warmers on before the bibs because the silicone grippers used in those items are meant to go against the skin. If you've ever had a set of knee or leg warmers fall down to your ankles on a ride, you'll know what we mean.

    For arm warmers, the sequence you put those on will not matter too much with regard to the bibs, but it's definitely better to put them on before your jersey. This will score you bonus style points and the grippers will grip your skin better than the fabric of a jersey.

    Riding Road Bikes in Medellin Colombia

    Riding Road Bikes in Medellin Colombia

    In today's blog post, I want to talk a little bit about what it's like to ride your road bike in Medellin, Colombia.


    The traffic is a bit rough. The traffic is always moving and there are hardly any traffic jams when you're on a bike. You're encourages to split a lane, go around, etc. Just get through to the next place when you're here. The lights here flash green a few times and then turn yellow, then red. So if you see a flashing green, it will soon be yellow.


    The drivers here I would say have skill. Due to the terrain, they are forced to drive in all the time, they must exercise caution. People are generally attentive and give some space. I think a lot of problems from drivers come from places where they don't have to think. Like in Florida where a driver just puts his or her mind on autopilot and points the car down a straight road. Here, there are potholes. There are obstacles, there are cliffs. So the drivers are generally more attentive. Just do not ever expect anything from them. 


    The terrain is tough. If you get out of the city, expect hard climbs but they aren't as bad as some I've seen. They are not straight up and down like in Vietnam or Thailand. The quality of the surface is a bit lower than average. If you really want to make the most out of your trip, strong wheels and 28mm tires are recommended. You can have every bit of fun on 23-25mm tires however, you just need to exercise more caution.

    Pit Stops and Food On The Go

    You'll see empanadas and arepas sold on the side of the road almost everywhere you go. There is no FDA or anything like that here so eat at your own risk, but I rarely hear of problems.

    Danger and Safety

    I feel safe on the bike. I stick to places where people ride. At least this way, I am not the first road cyclist they've seen today. A good way to find these routes if you're new is with Strava Segment Explorer. Look for segments with 1000s of attempts and that's where people commonly ride. I do not ride at night. It is less safe and you need your full vision to see imperfections in the road.

    I've included a video of a 2 hour ride in Medellin below. You can see the Strava post of the associated ride here:



    How to Pack your Bike for an International Flight

    Today I am going to go over how to pack your bike up for international travel. This will be a step by step guide. The sequence of the steps is very important so that the packing goes as seamlessly as possible.

    Step 1: Remove any mounted equipment/bags

    If you have a saddle bag, garmin or other handlebar mounted computer, now is the time to remove them.

    Step 2: Remove your seat post

    The second step is to remove the seat post. If you have a carbon fiber bike and don't plan on bringing your carbon fiber paste, you can take a dab and stick it in the seat tube now so that when you reinstall, you'll be properly lubed.

    Step 3: Remove the Pedals

    I use speedplay pedals. There are two easy ways to get these kinds of pedals off. You can use a pedal wrench or you can use a hex key. Don't forget that the left pedal is reverse threaded. This is a great time to clean off your cranks and also clean and relube the threads on your pedals and crank.

    Step 4: Remove the Chain

    This step is optional HOWEVER I highly recommend removing the chain and placing it in a plastic baggy. This gives you the opportunity to wipe down your chainstay with a mild degreaser and really just keeps everything nice and tidy. You won't need to zip tie your chain up and there will be less stress on your derailleur potentially (that gets removed too). I just think it's a great idea if you want to preserve your bike.

    Step 5: Dismount the derailleur from the hanger

    This step is simple enough. You only need to remove the derailleur from its hanger so that it's not physically attached to the bike. In most cases, you don't need to remove any cabling.

    Step 6: Remove your handlebars and replace the faceplate bolts on your stem

    What you want to do here is take off the 1,2 or 4 bolts that are holding your handlebars onto your stem, remove the handlebars, and then replace and tighten the bolts so they're not lost.

    Step 7: Remove bottle cages and replace screws

    If you have bottle cages on your bike, take them off. This is a good opportunity to put a little lube on your bottle cage bolts and reinstall them for travel. Pack the cages away in a safe place that wont allow them to be crushed.

    Step 8: Remove wheels and skewers, deflate tires

    This is the final step of disassembly. The wheels must be taken off, tires deflated, and skewers removed. Tires can expand on the airplane due to the decrease in cabin pressure over sealevel.

    Step 9: pack your bike in its container

    This step is hard to explain because how you pack your bike will depend upon your container and your preferences. I have traveled with my bike a lot. I have a couple of tricks I use when traveling that minimizes complexity. The number one trick is that I don't use foam to keep the bike parts safe. I use shop rags and rubber bands. Shop rags are washable and are fantastic to have on the road. So why not use them to protect your bike in transit? If they get greasy, you can wash them and they're easily held onto top tubes. When you pack your wheels, you do not want any metal on metal or metal on plastic contact. Use rags and towels to separate such things. The plane is sometimes a pretty bumpy ride and the amount of rubbing on a flight can be pretty substantial.

    Everything you need to know about 110 and 130 BCD Cranksets

    Everything you need to know about 110 and 130 BCD Cranksets

    What is BCD? 

    BCD stands for Bolt Circle Diameter. It is the distance from side to side of a circle that goes directly through each bolt hole in a crankset. If you're looking at the hole in a crankset, imagine a circle that went directly through the center of each hole overlayed on the crankset. The diameter of that circle is the BCD. When you see a measurement like 110 or 130 BCD, that means that diameter is 110 or 130 millimeters, respectively.

    What is the biggest chainring I can put on a 110 BCD or 130 BCD crankset?

    To some degree, the sky is the limit. The issue with adding large chainrings to a smaller 110 BCD crank is that the large chainrings can flex. Or, if they don't flex, you'll have a huge penalty in weight. There are some niche manufacturers that make 54 tooth chainrings for cranksets, but you'll pay a premium for them.

    What is the smallest chainring set I can put on a 130BCD crank?

    38 tooth. The smallest inner chainring I've been able to find is a 38 tooth. Anything smaller and you, the chainring teeth will run into the chainring bolts.

    How do I find my crankset or chainring's BCD?

    The easiest way, of course, is to look on any chainrings or inside the stamping of a crank arm for a marking. The image below shows how it could be marked.

    BCD Markings

    If you cannot find labels/markings, there are alternative methods. See the table below for measurements for popular BCDs. If you have a vintage or niche bike, it potentially won't be listed.

     Adjacent hole to BCD conversion Chart

    BCD in MM Smallest
    Between adjacent holes
    Number of Bolts Applicable
    146 44 103.2 4 Bolt Cranksets
    145 44 102.5 4 Bolt Cranksets
    120 36 84.9 4 Bolt Cranksets
    112 34 79.2 4 Bolt Cranksets
    110 uneven 34 63.6/90.6 4 Bolt Cranksets
    110 uneven 34 64.8/89.3 4 Bolt Cranksets
    104 30 73.5 4 Bolt Cranksets
    102 32 72.1 4 Bolt Cranksets
    151 44 88.8 5 Bolt Cranksets
    144 41 84.6 5 Bolt Cranksets
    135 39 79.4 5 Bolt Cranksets
    130 38 76.4 5 Bolt Cranksets
    110, 112 34 64.7, 65.2 5 Bolt Cranksets
    110 33 64.7 5 Bolt Cranksets
    102 32 60 5 Bolt Cranksets
    100 31; 36 58.7 5 Bolt Cranksets
    90 30 52.9 5 Bolt Cranksets


    What about Chainring Bolts? How big are they and what are they made out of?

    Chainring bolts are 10 mm. 

    The fancy folks use Titanium Chainring Bolts because reasons. Usually it's weight. You might shave a gram or two by swapping these out, but the cost efficiency is negligible. The more cost-conscious cyclists use steel or aluminum bolts.

    Should I get a 110 BCD Crankset or 130 BCD Crankset?

    In my opinion, that depends on the max tooth of your rear cassette. I have a 2015 Cannondale Supersix with SRAM Red 11 Speed and a 53/39 crankset with 11-28 rear cassette, and sometimes I wish I had more gearing. Why don't I get a larger cassette? Well, a short cage derailleur will max you out at 28 teeth on the rear cog. So max rear cassette size is a HUGE factor in deciding whether or not to go compact or standard.

    What kind of hills max out a 53/39 and 11-28 cassette?

    This is a climb I regularly did in Vietnam and wished I had a smaller crankset or bigger rear cassette:

    I weigh about 160 pounds and could do 280 watts up the climb. To keep my cadence reasonable, I would have to go all out, and how far I could go in any given day would be limited by the fact that I was over-exerting myself to overcome my lack of gearing.