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    The Corbah Blog

    Mount my GoPro to my Bicycle Helmet, Handlebars, or Chest?

    Mount my GoPro to my Bicycle Helmet, Handlebars, or Chest?

    Helmet Pros and cons

    PROS: The most significant benefit of mounting your GoPro to your helmet is that the view will be from the same point of view as you. The experience a watcher will have while watching your video will be very similar to what you experienced on that bike ride. If you look left, your camera will point left. That being said, if you tend to angle your helmet down and look forward to get a bit more of an aero position, your camera will be focused on the ground. Additionally, a helmet-mounted GoPro will also experience way less vibration than handlebar mounted. There are many dampers between the pavement and the camera itself.

    Many have noted that the highest quality videos come from a helmet-mounted camera.

    CONS: are that you're adding mass mounted off of your head. Your helmet will most likely need some adjustment to hold more firmly to your skull. In the event of a crash, there will be new things to break near your face, and you're modifying your helmet to do something it wasn't originally designed to do. Some have noted that the weight of the camera becomes noticeable on longer rides.

    Chest Pros and Cons

    This is probably the best setup for mountain bikers. Chest mounted camera setups will have the most stable camera angle. There will be minimal bouncing around, vibration, etc. If you're on single tracks with tons of ups and downs and obstacles, this is the best position. You will get a lot of footage of how the rider is maneuvering his or her bicycle.

    That being said, your field of view is very restricted. If some action happens off to the side, you cannot easily focus on it with the camera. If you're already wearing a camelback or loose-fitting jersey, the mounting will most likely not bug you at all.

    Handlebar Mount Pros and Cons

    The handlebar mount is the most convenient and most comfortable to set up. Go pro mounts exist that integrate with a Garmin mount, so you never have to take the adaptor off your bike. The viewpoint is off the front of the bike, so if you have no interest in seeing hand position or what is below, then this is for you. 

    The biggest con for this setup is that of vibration and jerkiness. Handlebars are hung off the front of the bike, and any road imperfection can be amplified.

    Also, it is important not to mount the GoPro directly to the bar (composite on composite) because it will transmit a lot of vibration. Try using a cut-up inner tube to act as a shock absorber by wrapping it tightly around the handlebars and then mounting your GoPro mount to that, clamping down tightly.

    5 Tips to Adjusting Your Rear Derailleur

    5 Tips to Adjusting Your Rear Derailleur

    Tip #1: Adjust your high-limit screw

    Your high limit screw will be on your rear derailleur and is usually marked with an H. This screw will limit the amount of range of your rear derailleur. If your high limit screw is off, then your chain might come off your *Smallest* cog and shift outboard too far. This limit adjuster prevents your bike from shifting over the limit of the smallest cog outward. To make the adjustment:

    • Make sure the bike is in the biggest front chainring
    • Make sure you've clicked the rear derailleur all the way into the smallest cog as possible.
    • Adjust the barrel adjusters if any so that they are de-tensioning the shifter cable

    Once this is all done, you can align your rear derailleur pulley wheel with the cog by turning the H limit screw clockwise until you hear the drive train become noisy. Once it's noisy, back the screw out until the noise is gone, and you have a smooth-running chain.

    Make sense? 

    Tip #2: Adjust the indexing

    The purpose of this adjustment is to make sure the derailleur lines up with each cog. The first step is to ensure the chain is on the correct front chainring. If you have a double, make sure it's on the biggest chainring. If you have a triple, make sure it's in the middle chainring. 

    Adjusting the indexing takes a bit of trial and error, but we can do it systematically so that our results are repeatable, and we minimize the work. The first step is to shift your rear derailleur into the smallest cog. Once we're in the smallest cog, shift up one single click. If the chain does not make it to the next gear, return the gear to the outermost cog using the shift lever and then turn the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur one turn counter-clockwise. Repeat this step until it makes the step.

    If your shift lever is shifting multiple sprockets, in the rear, that means your shift cable is too tight, and tension must be taken out of the shift cable by turning the barrel adjuster clockwise.

    Now we fine-tune the rear cog since we have the general setup done. Shift up and down the sprocket and check for noise. If there is excessive noise, turn the barrel adjuster clockwise just a quarter turn and check for excessive noise. Repeat until the sound is no more. Repeat this for all sprockets.

    Tip #3: Adjust the Low Limit Screw

    The key here is to adjust this screw too tightly and then back it out. This limit screw offers protection from going off the biggest cog and into the wheel spokes. To begin, shift your chain to the next smallest chainring. If you cannot get into the largest rear cog, if it shifts slowly into the largest cog, or there's a ton of noise in the largest cog, then your L screw is already too tight. Loosen the screw a quarter turn at a time until you can make it into that biggest rear cog properly.

    The key here, like the other parts of this job, is that we need to tighten the L screw until we create symptoms of an L screw that is too tight, then loosen it one half turn. The symptoms we're looking to create are:

    • Slow shift into biggest rear cog
    • Noisy chain in biggest rear cog
    • No shift whatsoever into biggest rear cog

    To check your work, try to shift the rear derailleur past the low limit while your bike is stationary. Watch and see if the rear derailleur can move past that largest cog. If it moves, you've done something wrong.

     

    Tip #5: Adjust the B screw

    The B Screw makes your shifting snappy and quick. What it does is pulls the derailleur wheels closest to your biggest cog. To check this, put your bike in the smallest chainring and largest rear cog. Most manufacturers recommend a 5 mm gap between your rear pulley and the largest rear cog. If the gap between your derailleur and largest rear cog is too small, your drivetrain will sound loud and crunchy. To increase the gap, turn the B screw clockwise.

    Tip #6: Ensure that your chain and sprocket isn't overworn

    Having a worn-out chain and sprocket will make this task infinitely more difficult. If you're noticing that no matter what you've done, the bike won't get into gear properly, it could be because of a worn-out component. In my experience, chains begin to show signs of wear after 2000 miles. Cassettes don't wear out too fast but riding a worn chain on a cassette will wear it out faster. Terrain will likely be the largest factor here.

    If you've completed all these steps, your derailleur is properly adjusted.

    Top 6 Carbon Fiber Road Bikes for 2020

    Top 6 Carbon Fiber Road Bikes for 2020

    AERO - RACE - All-Around

    This blog post is divided into three categories, and I'll be picking 2 bikes for each category. 

    AERO

    Specialized S-Works Venge with SRAM eTap AXS

    The winner of the aero category goes to the Specialized Sworks Venge with SRAM eTap AXS. This bike is seamless. For $12,500, we still think it's a bargain. It comes with eTap electronic shifting which will give you an aero boost since there are no shifter cables. And, it comes with 64mm deep section carbon wheels. We would have given this one the win for all arounder but we feel that the frame has made a few sacrifices for speed in favor of comfort. Which, given it's an aero bike is a sacrifice we're prepared to accept.

    Cannondale SystemSixHi-MOD Red eTap AXS

    The system six is our runner-up to the Venge. Given that this bike stood out in front of so many competitors, I still think that's quite the win for Cannondale. I think Cannondale wanted to preserve a lot of the essence of many other bikes in their lineup. Kind of much of the way Porsche won't put a bigger motor in the Caymen due to fears that it'll start putting down faster trap times than the 911. That being said, the System Six weighs in around 17.4 pounds. That weight is quite a bit heavier than even the SuperSix hi-mod bikes of 2015. It does beat out the Venge in terms of price, shaving off $1500 but we're not sure that's worth the almost 1kg penalty it has over the Venge.

    Race

    Cannondale SuperSix Evo HiMod DuraAce Di2 Disc

    We love Cannondale. The SuperSix HiMod DuraAce is the tool for the job when it comes to races. You a cherry-picked set of qualities that are all meant to bring you the best blend of race bike out there. Finding a sub-16-pound weight is very doable, and they come out of the box right around that number. You get aero features like an aero Seatpost, drop seat stays, and internal cable routing, but it doesn't compromise the weight or handling of the bike in any way.

    This is a bike meant to be a bike.

    Madone SLR 9 Disc eTap

    The Madone SLR9 would have won this category if it wasn't for the weight penalty and price. This bike is nearly $13,000 out of the box and weighs in at 17 and a half pounds about. We found that the blend of comfort, aero, race geometry, weight, made this bike a great tool for much of the road racing you see today. 

     

    All Arounder

    TCR ADVANCED SL 0 DISC RED

    We cannot sing this bikes praises enough. The Giant TCR does so many things well. If you're a road cyclist, this is the one bike that does it all.

     

    Cervelo R5

    The Cervelo R5 is another one of those fantastically balanced bikes, made by a manufacturer with a lifetime of experience who is just trying to make a Good bike. It comes with all the accouterments one would expect like a top of the line group, disc, carbon frame, etc. And it comes at an affordable price.

     

    8 Tips for Cycling in a Group and Having Perfect Etiquette!

    8 Tips for Cycling in a Group and Having Perfect Etiquette!

    Group Ride Tip #1: Use proper hand signals when on the front

    Debris in the road? Point it out. Turning left? Signal left. Coming to a stop sign or light? signal to slow or shout "slowing." These are at a bare minimum what is expected. If you are riding on the front, you are responsible for the rest of the group behind you. That means not dragging them into gravel unexpectedly or blasting them through an intersection.

    Group Ride Tip #2: No surging

    If you can feel your power going up and you're working harder, you're probably putting too much stress on the group. That is, unless the point of the ride is to go hard, but that's a different story. This is something most felt on uphills. If you're going notably harder on an uphill, you're more than likely going to string out the group and mess up the ride. 

    Group Ride Tip #3: If on the front, pedal down the hills.

    If you're on the front and coasting down the hill, you're messing up the ride in most cases. On the front, you are facing more headwinds, so it's incumbent upon you to continue to put out a similar power down the hill as you did up.

    Group Ride Tip #4: Do not half-wheel.

    What is Half-Wheeling, you ask? Well, when you're on the front of a double paceline, the handlebars should be lined up and parallel. If you're half wheeling, think of your handlebars lining up with the leading edge of your cycling buddies front wheel.

    Group Ride Tip #5 Regroup at the peak of large climbs.

    This tip is somewhat dependent upon what the group has already agreed upon. But it is common that larger groups might split up on longer climbs. If that happened and the group has a 'no-drop' policy, be sure to wait and grab a couple of great pics at the top of the climb.

    Group Ride Tip #6: No sudden braking

    Braking should be an absolute last resort when riding in a group. There are even some disciplines of cycling that ban the use of brake levers entirely -- track cycling. So if you can avoid it, try not to grab a fist full of brakes at any time.

    Group Ride Tip #7: Ride how you would like others to ride

    If you notice a fellow rider doing something silly or that makes you nervous, make a mental note of it and don't do it. 

    Group Ride Tip #8: Hands on the bars at all times.

    It might look cool to ride with no hands, but when you do it, you put the whole group at risk.

     

     

    Top 6 tips to get a Pedal Stroke Like a Pro

    Top 6 tips to get a Pedal Stroke Like a Pro

    You've been riding a bike since you were a kid. That puts 15 or more years of pedal experience under your belt. You must have it down at this point, right?

    But, you turn on the latest stage of The Tour and see riders pedaling smoother than you could ever dream of. Here are my top tips for a perfect pedal stroke.

     

    Tip #1: Let your body pick the cadence

    This is a bit of a back-pedal from what was thought of before that you are most efficient around 90 cadence. But lots of recent studies have suggested that the ideal cadence varies a lot from rider to rider. My advice to you is to pick a cadence that works for you and the type of riding you do. 

    Tip #2: Set up your saddle height correctly

    If you watch the pros ride, you'll see a variety of saddle heights. That is, some might have a ton of seatpost sticking out and others wont have much at all. But you will see one trend: when the leg is at the 6'o'clock position on the pedal stroke, their knee will make a 25-30 degree angle.

    Tip #3: Keep your upper body stable

    To do this, you will need to relax your arms and shoulders. Try incorporating some core exercises. 

    Tip #4: Increase your flexibility

    This tip is a bit intuitive. If your muscles face less resistance through the range of motion used in cycling, you'll be more efficient. Meaning, a tight quad muscle won't be throwing off your stroke. The more flexible you are, the more aero you'll be able to be without tightening up.

     Tip #5: Low cadence drills

    I will preface this by saying that before you engage in any low cadence drills, consult a physician. Some folks are more predisposed to knee injuries and dropping the cadence will put more force on your joints. That being said, the common belief here is that increasing the tension on your legs will lead to more neuromuscular recruitment. 

    A typically low cadence drill might look something like 80% of FTP at 60RPM for 5 to 10 minutes. Again, consult a physician before taking on any new workout regiment.

    Tip #6: Prepare your gear before you need it

    Cycling is a sport that takes place on various terrain. If you are cresting a hill and going onto a short descent, be sure to shift into the appropriate gear before it's needed. If your riding with a group of people, they will thank you for not coasting on the front down the hills.

    Alternatively, if you're coming into an uphill section, make sure the appropriate gear is selected before you try ad mash the 53x11 into a 8% grade.